09:00–10:30 Check-out and drive to Shinsen-numa Rest House
10:30–11:30 Walk around Shinsen-numa, enjoy ice cream and coffee
11:30–12:00 Drive to lunch spot
12:00–13:00 Lunch at Pi-kan Rollpizza (11:00–18:30)
13:00–16:00 Drive to Noboribetsu, scenic drive past Lake Toya and visit Oyunumagawa Natural Foot Bath
15:00–16:00 Hotel check-in and exploring
16:00–18:30 Swimming pool and hot spring tour
Heated pool: 08:00–22:00
Indoor baths: Open 24 hours
Outdoor baths and sauna: 05:00–24:00
18:30–19:00 Rent yukata for the baby
19:00–20:30 Buffet dinner (starts at 17:30) – Hoping for Hokkaido king crab!
Reality: Things Started Going Wrong in the Morning
Breakfast Trouble: Miscommunication with the Host
We tried to arrange breakfast at the hotel but had communication issues. It turned out the hotel owner was Chinese, and they actually didn’t provide breakfast at all. Disappointed, and not quite ready for a heavy sashimi rice bowl first thing in the morning, we decided to find a noodle shop instead.
However, every option was at least a 20-minute walk, and our baby refused to sit in the stroller. In the end, we carried him all the way.
Walking, and walking again… Otaru mornings.
Standing Ramen Breakfast
We finally found a tiny standing ramen shop with just one small table, barely fitting four people. Only “morning ramen” (Asa-ramen) was available. While carrying the baby on my back, I slurped the salty yet light ramen. Surprisingly, the baby enjoyed it too, and the warm flavors lifted our moods. On the way back, our baby insisted on walking himself, singing along the street.
Meanwhile, my husband was struggling to find a restroom—once again reminding me that this trip felt like traveling with two kids.
Standing ramen for breakfast!
Heading Toward Shinsen-numa: Fog and Heavy Rain
After breakfast, we checked out early and set off for Shinsen-numa Marsh, a remote natural spot believed to have been visited by spirits. As soon as we entered the mountain road, thick fog and a torrential downpour hit us, making it nearly impossible to see ahead.
We parked at the lot opposite Shinsen-numa and sheltered from the rain inside the rest house, which was cute and cozy like a mountain lodge. It even had a baby changing station. The owner offered freshly washed cherry tomatoes, and they were so sweet that even the baby loved them.
Warm coffee and fresh tomatoes — a small joy.
Brave Walk in the Rain
As the rain briefly eased, we ventured into the boardwalk trail with our baby on our back. The path was too rugged for strollers, and I was slightly nervous after reading online about bear sightings in the area.
Our baby enjoyed catching raindrops with his little hands, and despite the rough path, we pushed forward. After about 20 minutes, we reached a large marshland — it must have been breathtaking on a clear day. Sadly, it started raining again as we headed back.
A glimpse of Shinsen-numa’s wilderness.
Missed Views Due to Heavy Rain
Today was supposed to be about enjoying nature. But due to constant rain, we couldn’t properly see Mt. Yotei or Lake Toya. We even had to skip playing at the playground outside the pizza shop we visited. My husband grumbled, “Why are we eating pizza in Japan?” adding to the gloomy mood.
Finally Reaching Noboribetsu: Much-Needed Hot Spring Time
After a long drive, we arrived at Noboribetsu, one of my favorite places in Hokkaido. We stayed at Daiichi Takimotokan, known for having a kids’ swimming pool.
The pool was smaller than expected, but the depth was perfect for young children. There was a huge waterslide, but it looked more suited for adults than toddlers.
After some pool time, we challenged ourselves with the onsen baths. While not easy with a baby, it was a precious family experience. Although stairs were inconvenient and showering wasn’t easy, just enjoying hot spring water with our child made it worth it.
We eagerly headed to the buffet dinner hoping for king crab, only to find a long line. When we finally got our food, the king crab was cold and tasted similar to regular crab, which was a little disappointing. However, the sashimi and salmon roe were fresh and delicious.
We couldn’t roam the buffet freely with the baby, which was a little frustrating, but we were still satisfied overall.
Later, we took a walk to a nearby convenience store. On the way, we stumbled across a live performance featuring “Enma Daiou” (the King of Hell) near the hot spring market. Our baby, not scared at all, watched intently and even waved goodbye to the actor at the end.
Exhausted from the long day, we picked up some snacks and beer, but we passed out immediately without even having a drink.
