Nagoya Station is located at the heart of the city, and perhaps due to its role as a major transit hub, it’s harder to find Airbnb or traditional tatami-style accommodations here compared to other cities. Most available options are business hotels, which typically have very compact room layouts—something that came as quite a shock to my husband, who was experiencing it for the first time.
We chose a hotel that offered relatively large beds among the more affordable, conveniently located options near the station. The room was extremely small, barely fitting the bed and a tiny nightstand, but it was exceptionally clean and efficiently organized, making our stay comfortable. The hotel also had a large public bath and provided a generous selection of amenities, which helped us relax after a day of traveling. Plus, since it was a high-rise hotel, the night view of the city from our room was stunning.
Morning in Nagoya – Starting the Day with Komeda’s Coffee
As soon as morning arrived, my husband, who loves all kinds of alcohol, kicked off the day with a beer. But when traveling with a baby, at least one parent needs to stay sharp. Instead of joining him for a morning drink, I decided to visit Komeda’s Coffee, one of the highlights of our Nagoya trip.
Komeda’s Coffee, a beloved chain that started in Nagoya in 1968, is famous across Japan and even has overseas locations. They serve a special morning set from 7:30 AM to 11:00 AM, featuring their signature red bean paste toast. At that early hour, local seniors were enjoying coffee and reading newspapers. Although smoking is usually allowed indoors, thankfully, no one was smoking when we visited, so we could comfortably enjoy our breakfast. The red bean paste toast was so delicious that it alone made me want to come back to Japan someday. (There are many Komeda branches in Fukuoka too, but I haven’t visited them yet!)
Attractions for Babies in Nagoya – Electricity Museum and Children’s Science Museum
I had read that Nagoya is a city where science and technology thrive, so we headed toward the Electricity Museum and the Children’s Science Museum. Since we arrived early, we decided to spend some time at a nearby playground. However, our little one got so absorbed in playing that we ended up canceling the science museum visit altogether.
The Nagoya City Science Museum is famous for its interactive exhibits, science shows, and planetarium. Right next to it is the Nagoya City Art Museum, making it a great spot to visit if you are traveling with elementary-aged children. Even on a weekend, many school groups were there on educational field trips.
One of Nagoya’s local specialties is miso katsu (deep-fried pork cutlet with miso sauce). We made a reservation at Yabaton Yabacho Main Store, known as the birthplace of miso katsu, aiming to enter right when it opened at 11:00 AM. Even though we arrived about 15 minutes early, there was already a line of over a dozen people.
The miso katsu was a bit saltier than expected, but the crispiness of the cutlet was perfect. The pork was thick and juicy, making the meal satisfying (though it took a while to digest!).
A Small Break at the Park
After an energetic morning and a hearty meal, our baby fell asleep in the stroller. Finally, with some free time on our hands, we went shopping around Nagoya. Despite being a large city, Nagoya doesn’t have an overwhelming number of tourists, making it somewhat of a hidden gem for shopping.
When we looked for a café to rest, we found that most local cafés (except for chains like Starbucks) allowed indoor smoking, making them unsuitable for families with babies. So instead, we bought canned coffee and relaxed in a park. One thing I appreciate about Japan is that even in urban areas, there are plenty of small and large parks where you can rest. Under the pleasant May weather, we enjoyed quietly observing local life until our baby woke up.
Afternoon Snack – Nagoya’s Famous Tebasaki
Later, responding to my husband’s wish for a draft beer, we found an izakaya-style pub. Tebasaki (chicken wings), which we had first enjoyed in Fukuoka, actually originates from Nagoya! Compared to Fukuoka’s version, Nagoya-style tebasaki had a stronger pepper flavor and was oven-roasted rather than deep-fried. Honestly, the taste could probably be replicated at home by seasoning chicken wings with pepper and salt and roasting them.
Tebasaki in Nagoya
Another Playground Adventure
After some snacking and shopping, we stumbled upon another playground. Our baby, half-asleep in the stroller, immediately tried to jump out.
As we explored different playgrounds in Nagoya, I found myself paying close attention to their design, safety features, and creativity. While modern apartment complexes often have very standardized playgrounds, Nagoya’s parks offered unique and interesting elements that made me think—if someone designs playgrounds professionally, traveling the world for inspiration would be a great idea.
Another Playground Moment
Dinner in Nagoya – Grilled Eel
Nagoya has a long tradition of eel cuisine (unagi) dating back to the Edo period, and it’s known as the birthplace of Hitsumabushi (grilled eel over rice). “Hitsu” refers to the wooden container used to serve the rice, and “mabushi” means to scatter toppings evenly over the rice.
We couldn’t leave Nagoya without trying hitsumabushi! Many of the most famous restaurants don’t accept reservations, so traveling with a baby, we chose a slightly less famous spot that allowed booking in advance—and it turned out to be an excellent decision. The restaurant had a charming garden, and the food was delicious enough to make me want to bring my parents here in the future.
The restaurant was a bit away from downtown Nagoya, but it was near a UNIQLO store, so it could be a good idea to combine shopping and dining in one trip.
Final Thoughts
While Nagoya may not have as many tourist attractions as other Japanese cities, it offers a unique charm with its laid-back atmosphere and a glimpse into everyday Japanese life. It’s also a hidden shopping paradise—highly recommended for those who love shopping without the typical crowds!
Tips:
Business hotels are more common than Airbnb accommodations.
Must-try local specialties include Komeda’s Coffee’s red bean paste toast, miso katsu, tebasaki (chicken wings), and hitsumabushi (grilled eel).
This trip was planned rather suddenly because some of my Asiana Airlines mileage was about to expire. Generally, it’s very difficult to find available tickets when using miles, as most are booked nearly a year in advance. Among the remaining options, Nagoya was the only destination that fit our schedule. So, we decided to explore this unfamiliar city, feeling as if we were venturing into the unknown.
Tire Out the Baby Before the Flight
One of the keys to a successful flight with a baby is making sure they are tired beforehand. The first thing we always do when heading to the airport is locate the kids’ play area. Until around age two, the simple play zones provided by airlines, like the Pororo Zone, are usually enough. However, after that age, children seem to need more active and varied spaces to burn off their energy.
First Impressions of Nagoya: Korea’s Daegu?
Nagoya (名古屋) is the capital of Aichi Prefecture, located in the Chubu (central) region of Japan. It is Japan’s fourth-largest city by population and sits roughly between Tokyo and Osaka. Rather than being a major tourist destination, Nagoya is often seen more as a transit point to other cities. After being almost completely destroyed during World War II, the city rebounded through industries such as automobiles, ceramics, and robotics, becoming economically strong and somewhat self-sufficient. It’s often said that locals here are more reserved compared to other regions in Japan. Perhaps because of all this, my first impression upon arriving in Nagoya was: “This feels a bit like Korea’s Daegu.”
Street leading to Nagoya Castle
Walking Through Golden History at Nagoya Castle
One of Nagoya’s most famous tourist spots is Nagoya Castle. If it weren’t for this trip, I might never have had the chance to visit this historic site. Blessed with pleasant May weather, we leisurely explored the grounds. Nagoya Castle was heavily damaged during air raids in 1945, and much of it has been reconstructed in modern times. As of May 2023, the castle’s main keep (Tenshukaku) was undergoing renovation and was closed to visitors, so we visited the Honmaru Palace instead. Honmaru Palace is a luxurious structure once used to receive guests, featuring separate tatami rooms and beautifully gilded wall paintings.
Golden artwork inside Honmaru Palace
The Challenges of Traveling with a Baby
As we explored Nagoya Castle, our baby, having found little to amuse himself, soon became restless. We quickly searched for a nearby playground. Although South Korea has one of the world’s lowest birth rates, Japan is not far behind. Despite Nagoya being Japan’s fourth-largest city, it was rare to see young children, and many playgrounds we passed seemed abandoned and overgrown with weeds. Still, even these forgotten playgrounds became exciting adventures for our little one, who happily cleaned off the dusty equipment with his tiny bottom as he played.
A small playground hidden in the city
A Culinary Misadventure
Unlike most tourist cities where restaurant information is easily found on Google Maps, Nagoya’s relatively low tourist traffic made it harder to find good dining spots. We couldn’t locate the restaurant we had planned to visit, so we ended up entering a random yakitori (grilled skewers) restaurant nearby. I ordered an assorted chicken skewer set, but to my surprise, many parts like liver, heart, and gizzards were barely cooked — almost raw. (Perhaps this is a common local style?) Since I’m not even a fan of beef tartare, I ended up drinking more beer than eating food. By evening, the once-quiet streets of Nagoya were packed with office workers, and most restaurants were full. We managed to find an empty seat at a small oden bar near our hotel, but unfortunately, the food didn’t live up to expectations. It became the first time in all my trips to Japan that I felt I had failed in choosing a restaurant.
Chef, this is still raw…
Final Thoughts on Day 1
Since the trip was decided on such short notice, we faced many small setbacks from the very first day. Still, just strolling through the clean, well-organized streets of Nagoya in the lovely May weather felt healing in itself. Our Nagoya journey with an increasingly self-aware 18-month-old will continue in the next chapter.
