07:00–08:00 Breakfast (Breakfast served from 07:00–09:00)
08:00–09:30 Morning onsen (hot spring) time
10:00 Check-out
10:00–10:15 Drive to next destination
10:15–12:00 Visit Date Jidaimura (Samurai Theme Park)
12:00–12:30 Drive to Amano Family Farm (30 min, 25km on free road)
12:30–13:30 Lunch: Shirataki beef, one of Japan’s top 3 Wagyu
13:30–15:00 Drive to Sapporo Station (95km on toll road)
15:00– Free time, no set plans
Morning Onsen Bliss
Wanting to soak in Noboribetsu’s hot springs one last time, we took our baby to the baths early in the morning. The morning onsen experience was peaceful and refreshing. Breathing in the fresh air and soaking in the natural hot spring water felt like healing for both body and mind.
However, carrying the baby around on the slippery floors gave me a stiff neck and sore shoulders.
Breakfast at Daiichi Takimotokan
Breakfast was served from 7:00 to 9:00 AM, giving us plenty of time to eat leisurely. The Hokkaido milk was so delicious that I had three cups! Our baby, feeling hot after the onsen, tried to take off his yukata in the breakfast hall — and almost his diaper too. We barely managed to stop him, but he still ran around making dolphin noises, so we had to rush through breakfast.
Please keep your clothes on, little one…
Exploring Date Jidaimura
After checking out, we drove about 15 minutes to Date Jidaimura, a theme park similar to Korea’s folk villages but set in Japan’s Edo period. Actors dressed in historical costumes performed plays and showcased life from the era, making it fun even though we didn’t understand all the Japanese.
Some scenes reminded me of old Japanese folk tales, and each building had its own theme. There was even a haunted house, where our baby excitedly called the ghosts “big sisters” and laughed.
We hadn’t expected much but ended up having a wonderful time. I highly recommend it to anyone visiting Noboribetsu. Just note: it’s better to visit during cooler seasons since most of the experience involves walking outdoors.
After visiting Date Jidaimura, we drove about 30 minutes to Amano Family Farm for lunch, eager to try Shiraoi Beef, one of Japan’s top three Wagyu brands.
The farm restaurant was in a remote area, making it difficult to reach without a car, and it was so popular with group tours that reservations were almost essential.
Our baby fell into a deep sleep in the car from exhaustion, so sadly, he couldn’t join us for the meal. The restaurant was crowded and stuffy, but after requesting, they kindly turned on the air conditioner.
The beef was tender and delicious, but honestly, every time I try Wagyu in Japan, I still feel that Korean Hanwoo suits my taste better. It was a bit disappointing that the staff seemed very stressed and there was no English support.
After lunch, we drove about 95km to Sapporo Station using the expressway. Trying to return the rental car, we got lost driving in the city and even ended up going the wrong way down a one-way street. From that moment on, I vowed never to let my husband drive in Japan again!
After successfully returning the car, we checked into our hotel, unpacked, and rested a bit before exploring downtown Sapporo. For dinner, we went to a highly rated shabu-shabu restaurant, but we were so exhausted that we lost our appetites and ended up just drinking beer.
Cute dishes and fresh shabu-shabu ingredients
Reflections on the Trip
As wonderful as the trip was, the fatigue from the intense itinerary and long travel days started to overshadow the happy memories. Looking back, I questioned why I planned such a tight schedule.
Next time, when traveling with a toddler in Hokkaido, I would recommend picking just a few areas to visit, focusing on relaxation and good food rather than rushing through a packed itinerary.
09:00–10:30 Check-out and drive to Shinsen-numa Rest House
10:30–11:30 Walk around Shinsen-numa, enjoy ice cream and coffee
11:30–12:00 Drive to lunch spot
12:00–13:00 Lunch at Pi-kan Rollpizza (11:00–18:30)
13:00–16:00 Drive to Noboribetsu, scenic drive past Lake Toya and visit Oyunumagawa Natural Foot Bath
15:00–16:00 Hotel check-in and exploring
16:00–18:30 Swimming pool and hot spring tour
Heated pool: 08:00–22:00
Indoor baths: Open 24 hours
Outdoor baths and sauna: 05:00–24:00
18:30–19:00 Rent yukata for the baby
19:00–20:30 Buffet dinner (starts at 17:30) – Hoping for Hokkaido king crab!
Reality: Things Started Going Wrong in the Morning
Breakfast Trouble: Miscommunication with the Host
We tried to arrange breakfast at the hotel but had communication issues. It turned out the hotel owner was Chinese, and they actually didn’t provide breakfast at all. Disappointed, and not quite ready for a heavy sashimi rice bowl first thing in the morning, we decided to find a noodle shop instead.
However, every option was at least a 20-minute walk, and our baby refused to sit in the stroller. In the end, we carried him all the way.
Walking, and walking again… Otaru mornings.
Standing Ramen Breakfast
We finally found a tiny standing ramen shop with just one small table, barely fitting four people. Only “morning ramen” (Asa-ramen) was available. While carrying the baby on my back, I slurped the salty yet light ramen. Surprisingly, the baby enjoyed it too, and the warm flavors lifted our moods. On the way back, our baby insisted on walking himself, singing along the street.
Meanwhile, my husband was struggling to find a restroom—once again reminding me that this trip felt like traveling with two kids.
Standing ramen for breakfast!
Heading Toward Shinsen-numa: Fog and Heavy Rain
After breakfast, we checked out early and set off for Shinsen-numa Marsh, a remote natural spot believed to have been visited by spirits. As soon as we entered the mountain road, thick fog and a torrential downpour hit us, making it nearly impossible to see ahead.
We parked at the lot opposite Shinsen-numa and sheltered from the rain inside the rest house, which was cute and cozy like a mountain lodge. It even had a baby changing station. The owner offered freshly washed cherry tomatoes, and they were so sweet that even the baby loved them.
Warm coffee and fresh tomatoes — a small joy.
Brave Walk in the Rain
As the rain briefly eased, we ventured into the boardwalk trail with our baby on our back. The path was too rugged for strollers, and I was slightly nervous after reading online about bear sightings in the area.
Our baby enjoyed catching raindrops with his little hands, and despite the rough path, we pushed forward. After about 20 minutes, we reached a large marshland — it must have been breathtaking on a clear day. Sadly, it started raining again as we headed back.
A glimpse of Shinsen-numa’s wilderness.
Missed Views Due to Heavy Rain
Today was supposed to be about enjoying nature. But due to constant rain, we couldn’t properly see Mt. Yotei or Lake Toya. We even had to skip playing at the playground outside the pizza shop we visited. My husband grumbled, “Why are we eating pizza in Japan?” adding to the gloomy mood.
Finally Reaching Noboribetsu: Much-Needed Hot Spring Time
After a long drive, we arrived at Noboribetsu, one of my favorite places in Hokkaido. We stayed at Daiichi Takimotokan, known for having a kids’ swimming pool.
The pool was smaller than expected, but the depth was perfect for young children. There was a huge waterslide, but it looked more suited for adults than toddlers.
After some pool time, we challenged ourselves with the onsen baths. While not easy with a baby, it was a precious family experience. Although stairs were inconvenient and showering wasn’t easy, just enjoying hot spring water with our child made it worth it.
We eagerly headed to the buffet dinner hoping for king crab, only to find a long line. When we finally got our food, the king crab was cold and tasted similar to regular crab, which was a little disappointing. However, the sashimi and salmon roe were fresh and delicious.
We couldn’t roam the buffet freely with the baby, which was a little frustrating, but we were still satisfied overall.
Later, we took a walk to a nearby convenience store. On the way, we stumbled across a live performance featuring “Enma Daiou” (the King of Hell) near the hot spring market. Our baby, not scared at all, watched intently and even waved goodbye to the actor at the end.
Exhausted from the long day, we picked up some snacks and beer, but we passed out immediately without even having a drink.
13:10–14:00 Lunch at Maruten Sato Shokudo (sea urchin rice bowl + grilled fish)
14:00–15:30 Drive to Otaru
15:30–16:00 Check-in at Otaru hotel and organize luggage
16:00–18:00 Sightseeing in Otaru
Planned route: UNIQLO → Otaru Music Box Museum → LeTAO Ice Cream → Stroll through Sakaimachi Street → Kamameshi Factory → Otaru Park
19:30 Visit the izakaya Kamawanu (reservation made)
However, plans are just plans. Reality turned out quite differently.
Unexpected Challenges at Cape Kamui
The morning weather was clear, so we decided to go to Cape Kamui instead of switching to our rainy-day Plan B. Wanting to see the stunning “Bida” scenery that my husband was excited about, we set off. However, Cape Kamui wasn’t stroller-friendly and involved steep paths, so we had to carry our baby and walk almost like hiking. The temperature in Hokkaido soared to 33°C (91°F), and we were drenched in sweat. Still, we were rewarded by the view of the vibrant blue ocean, known as “Shakotan Blue.”
The rest area at Cape Kamui was small and prices were quite high. Ice cream alone cost around 5,000 won (~$4 USD), so we hesitated to buy it. Unfortunately, our baby started crying, and even my husband grew grumpy, causing a bit of chaos. In the end, we abandoned our plan for a sea urchin lunch and decided to head straight to Otaru.
Arriving Early in Otaru
The hotel we booked in Otaru, chosen for its value-for-money, was spacious and clean, but lacked an in-room refrigerator, which was inconvenient. After waking from a nap, our baby cried from hunger, and the tension remained high as my husband was still in a bad mood. We quickly bought shrimp oden from a nearby Kamameshi branch to feed the baby, calming things down a bit. It felt like managing two kids at once.
Once fed, our baby happily strolled through Sakaimachi Street, tasting ice cream and melon along the way. LeTAO’s shop had many tasting samples, and our whole family enjoyed a sweet refresh. There weren’t as many tourists as expected, so it felt relaxed. However, the heat persisted, and my husband joked, “Everyone told me to pack a jacket because Hokkaido would be cold…”
In the evening, we headed to Hatasushi, a sushi restaurant we had booked a week in advance. Although it’s usually hard to get a table without a reservation, we were the first customers and the place was calm. An elderly owner in his 70s and a kind lady in her 60s warmly welcomed us. We ordered the recommended course (5,500 yen) and a smaller course (2,800 yen). There wasn’t much difference between the two, leaving my husband slightly disappointed. Also, Otaru beer was slightly bitter, so we decided not to order it again.
They kindly prepared tamagoyaki (sweet omelet), rice, and miso soup for our baby, but he wasn’t very interested—probably because he had already filled up on ice cream.
After dinner, we decided to walk to Otaru Park, hoping to catch a beautiful seaside sunset. However, even a “20-minute walk” shown on Google Maps can be full of surprises. The path was steep, and carrying the baby felt more like a full-on hike. When we finally reached the top and paused for a drink and a photo, a sudden downpour hit us like a sitcom scene. Bitten by mosquitoes and drenched by rain, we hurried back down before dark.
After returning to the hotel completely soaked, we quickly showered. Although it was around 7:40 PM and we considered skipping our izakaya reservation, we decided to go anyway. Thankfully, they had saved our seats. This place, run by a mother and son duo, was absolutely charming—kind service and delicious food. The chef even customized the menu for us. If I had to choose the best restaurant we visited during this trip, it would definitely be here—a place I almost wanted to keep as a secret.
However, the peacefulness didn’t last long: Our baby started greeting every customer in the restaurant and even tried to imitate dolphin sounds. We had to quickly finish our drinks, buy a few cans of beer from the convenience store, and head back to the hotel. We ended the exhausting day by falling into a deep sleep almost instantly.
After a long wait, our summer holiday finally began! To avoid the high peak season prices, we slightly delayed our trip and scheduled it from August 30 to September 3.
This trip to Hokkaido was quite a challenge for us in many ways:
Challenge 1: Longer Flight Time Since our baby could already handle about an hour-long flight, we decided to try a slightly longer flight this time.
Challenge 2: First Overseas Rental Car Drive My husband, not exactly the most athletic person, would be driving a rental car in Japan for the first time.
Challenge 3: Adjusting the Trip Duration Feeling that two or three days would be too short, we extended our itinerary to a generous five days and four nights.
I had visited Hokkaido twice before and only had fond memories of it, so I really wanted to share it with my husband. Instead of planning a trip to faraway places like Shiretoko, which require long hours of travel, we focused on more accessible areas like Otaru and Noboribetsu.
Although I started booking accommodations and planning time-specific schedules three months in advance thanks to my planner personality, I found myself exhausted from constantly revising the itinerary right up until departure. Through this experience, I realized that “early planning” can sometimes become a source of stress when life gets too busy.
Day 1 Itinerary (Wednesday, August 30)
14:05–16:45 Arrive at New Chitose Airport (landing delayed by 1 hour)
17:45–18:45 Transfer from Airport → Sapporo via JR Rapid Train (approx. 45 minutes, 1,150 yen)
19:00 Check-in at Nakamuraya Hotel
19:30 Dinner at a nearby izakaya
We left home around 9 AM after slowly packing our bags. The airport wasn’t crowded, but due to unexpected delays, we had to rush to board our flight. Upon arriving at New Chitose Airport, we took the JR Rapid Train and reached downtown Sapporo in about 45 minutes. The extended travel time was a bit tough for our baby.
View of Hokkaido’s rice fields and farmlands during landing
Accommodation and Dinner
We stayed at Nakamuraya Hotel, located right next to the Hokkaido Government Office. Although it was about a 15-minute walk from Sapporo Station, the hotel itself was clean and comfortable. Since we were traveling with a baby, we prioritized booking tatami-style rooms, but the options were quite limited. There was a slight scent from the bedding, but it wasn’t a big issue, and the hotel staff were incredibly kind and welcoming.
Because we arrived quite late, we decided to have dinner at a nearby izakaya located in the basement of the same building. It was a small place, filled with locals, and the prices were very reasonable. We ordered three simple dishes, and an unexpected variety of appetizers (which seemed to be part of a seating charge system) filled our table, making us feel completely satisfied.
At first, I didn’t fully understand this seating charge system (otoshi), but after traveling to Japan several times, I realized it’s common in many izakayas. The staff were very friendly to our baby and even played with toys to entertain him, allowing us to finish our meal peacefully. As always, the draft beer in Japan was incredibly smooth and refreshing.
Assorted appetizers that came with the seating charge
Our hotel had a small public bath (though it wasn’t an onsen) where we happened to be the only ones there. I had a wonderful time bathing together with my baby—sharing such moments in a bath is truly one of the special experiences that only parents and young children can have. It was a small, simple moment but one filled with immense happiness.
Wrapping Up the First Day
The day felt incredibly long with just the travel alone. Despite rushing from arrival to dinner to bath time, I fell asleep with an excited heart, thrilled about the adventures to come with my baby in a new destination.
